The Casablanca issue
Derb Ghallef, Casablanca's 4,000-trader market quarter
Four thousand traders work under corrugated iron. Gabriel Loire's stained glass is 1.9 km north, and two rooftops are within a tram ride. The guide covers all of it, street by street.
By Etienne DelmasReading Casablanca street by street
Derb Ghallef's joutia holds 4,000 traders working out of shacks of tin, zinc and plywood, and its strength is second-hand electronics, spare parts and repairs. Walking in costs nothing, and haggled goods start at 20 DH. A council rehabilitation scheme is underway, and the commune confirmed in 2026 that the joutia is not being relocated.
The joutia and its electronics alleys
Joutia de Derb Ghallef is the biggest permanent second-hand bazaar in Casablanca, an open-air public market with no door policy and nothing to pay at the entrance. The lanes are barely two people wide, roofed in corrugated iron and lit by bare strip-lights, and they run between walls of stacked second-hand televisions, phone boards, cables and power tools. Hand-painted Arabic shop signs mark one repair unit off from the next. The plan is a labyrinth rather than a grid, and that is the thing worth knowing before you go in.
A weekday morning is the time to come. Keep your phone and wallet in a front pocket, and a group should stay tight in the narrow lanes and go single-file through the electronics alleys.
Trade in the quarter is repair as much as retail. The stalls sell boards, cables and tools, and they sell the labour to put them back together. Prices move with the haggle, and 20 DH is where the cheapest of them begin.
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Food markets on Avenue Stendhal and Boulevard Ghandi
Marché Central de Derb Ghallef (139 Avenue Stendhal) is the quarter's food market, a covered neighbourhood hall with tiled wet floors, pyramids of oranges and olives, butchers' hooks and fishmongers working on crushed ice. Flower and locksmith units sit by the entrance. Entry is free, and the aisles are tight by mid-morning. From the Derb Ghalef tram stop it is a 15-minute walk past the Benbrik roundabout, and the hall shows you what people here eat.
Marché Riviera (Boulevard Ghandi) stands a kilometre south-west of the joutia and keeps longer hours, 07:00 to 22:00. Fishmongers set their ice slabs out front. The side units hold cobblers, tailors and television-repair booths, with butchers and produce inside and crêperie and snack counters at the edges, where snacks run 10 DH to 30 DH. The pace is gentler than the joutia's, and the market is public and free to browse.
Fried fish and Friday couscous near the joutia
Snack Amine sits 700 m from the joutia on a Derb Ghallef street corner under its own neon sign, fryers working behind glass, plastic tables and stools out front. Platters of whole fried fish and calamari arrive with cumin, bread and lemon wedges. Grilled or fried fish costs 60 DH to 75 DH, and a plate is big enough to share four ways. It opens daily 11:00 to 22:00. There is a wait at lunchtime, and the fritures are what the kitchen does.
Chez Robio (365 Boulevard Abdelmoumen) is a 10-minute walk south of the joutia, a corner snack-and-juice bar with a charcoal grill behind the counter, fruit-juice blenders and milkshake glasses on the bar, and pavement stools facing the tram line. Grills, pizzas and tacos run most days at 50 DH to 75 DH a plate. Couscous lands on Fridays and rfissa on Wednesdays, and those two days are the cheapest Moroccan home cooking in the quarter. Nobody books; you walk in.
Sushi in Maârif Extension
Bao Bao (Rue Attabari) occupies a ground-floor unit of the Attabari business centre in Maârif Extension, 1.6 km north-west of the joutia, with a sushi counter behind glass and maki platters and hot wok dishes going out to packed tables. It opens daily 12:00 to 00:00 and costs 150 DH to 200 DH a head. You can dine in, take away or order delivery, and weekends need booking.
Bofill's towers on Boulevard Abdelmoumen
Casablanca Twin Center rises over the Zerktouni and Al Massira Al Khadra junction, 1.7 km north of the joutia up Boulevard Abdelmoumen, and it is the skyline marker you navigate Derb Ghallef by. Ricardo Bofill designed the two matching towers, finished in 1998, 28 storeys and 115 m each, with stepped crowns and a five-level shopping concourse joining them at the base. Inside that base are a mall, a supermarket and the Kenzi Tower hotel. Entry is free, and the towers against the joutia's tin roofs are the contrast most people photograph.
Rooftop tables at Nomads and Sky 28
Nomads Casablanca (Rue Al Madani) takes the open 11th-floor terrace of the Waldorf building in Palmiers, 1.1 km north of the joutia, with rattan and low seating, shisha pipes at the rail and a clear 360-degree sweep that picks up the Hassan II Mosque minaret, Casablanca Finance City and the Twin Center. The kitchen leans Italian at 200 DH to 400 DH a head. Doors open at 09:00 and stay open to the small hours, with live music most evenings. A terrace table needs booking ahead, and it works as the evening to a market morning.
Sky 28 occupies the 28th floor of the Kenzi Tower at the Twin Center, a low-lit lounge behind floor-to-ceiling glass with the city grid and the Atlantic below. It is a 20-minute walk or two tram stops north of the joutia and opens daily 15:00 to 02:00, with cocktails and tapas at 150 DH to 300 DH. Because it is glassed in, it holds up as a sunset drink when the Atlantic wind is blowing. Non-residents are welcome, dress is smart-casual, and a larger group should reserve, since the bar privatises for up to 200 people.
Gabriel Loire's glass at Notre-Dame de Lourdes
Église Notre-Dame de Lourdes stands at the Rond-Point d'Europe, 1.9 km north-east of the joutia, and it is the nearest canonical monument to the quarter. From outside it is a plain grey concrete modernist shell of 1954 with a long covered entrance porch and little else to look at. Inside, floor-to-roofline stained glass by the Chartres master Gabriel Loire fills the bays between the concrete piers in deep blues, reds and golds, the finest glass in Morocco.
Entry is free and the hours run 08:30 to 19:00. Come in daylight, since the glass needs the sun behind it, and keep out of service hours.
Shade in Parc Murdoch
Parc Murdoch, also signed Parc ISESCO, lies 1.8 km north-east in Mers Sultan. It was laid out in 1907 and fully restored in 2006: four hectares of mature century-old trees, wide gravel walking and jogging paths lined with benches, a children's playground, and ring-necked parakeets screeching in the canopy. It is free and open 06:00 to 20:00. After an hour in the market lanes it is the only real shade within walking distance.
Raja, Wydad and the Complexe Sportif Mohammed V
Complexe Sportif Mohammed V is the Maârif landmark, 2 km north-west of the joutia, a 45,000-seat bowl with a curved roof canopy over the main stands and an Olympic pool and annexes alongside. It was overhauled at close to 500 million dirhams for the 2025 Africa Cup of Nations. On derby nights the terraces fill with Raja green and Wydad red banners and tifos, and tickets start at 50 DH.
Confirm the fixture venue before you travel. Late-2026 pitch work pushed Raja and Wydad league games temporarily to Stade Larbi Zaouli. For the Casablanca derby, sit in a neutral stand.
Shows at the Complexe Culturel Touria Sekkat
Complexe Culturel Touria Sekkat sits 700 m west of the joutia in Val Fleuri, on the corner of Rue Madame de Sévigné and Rue Stendhal. It is a low concrete municipal block with poster boards by the doors and a 407-seat auditorium inside, the one real performance venue in the quarter. The programme covers school dance shows and professional theatre, pitched at school and community audiences, and most tickets cost under 100 DH.
Book through the centre for a scheduled show. Casablanca council put out a refit tender in 2026, so check the programme before you make the trip.
Staying on Boulevard Abdelmoumen
ibis Abdelmoumen Casa Centre (109 Boulevard Abdelmoumen) is a 12-storey block in the chain's red-and-white Agora styling, built in 2019 and a kilometre from the joutia on the same boulevard. It has 157 rooms, a restaurant, a lounge bar off the lobby and covered parking, at 500 DH to 750 DH a night. Tram tracks run past the door and the stop is two minutes away, with Casa-Port and the old medina 15 minutes up the line. It is plain and well connected, with the joutia, Snack Amine and the Twin Center all on foot or one short ride away.
Practical notes
Walk the joutia on a weekday morning, and book a Nomads terrace table and any larger table at Sky 28 in advance. Check the Touria Sekkat programme before travelling and confirm where Raja or Wydad are actually playing. See the Casablanca guide and the Casablanca hotel search.
Gallery
Derb Ghallef in pictures
Derb Ghallef — your questions
When should you visit Joutia de Derb Ghallef?
Go on a weekday morning. It is an open-air public market, free to walk into, and haggled prices start at 20 DH. Keep your phone and wallet in a front pocket, and walk single-file through the electronics alleys.
Is the Derb Ghallef joutia being relocated?
No. A council rehabilitation scheme is underway, and the commune confirmed in 2026 that the joutia is not being moved.
How do you reach Derb Ghallef by tram?
From the Derb Ghalef tram stop, walk 15 minutes past the Benbrik roundabout to Marché Central de Derb Ghallef at 139 Avenue Stendhal. The ibis Abdelmoumen Casa Centre has a stop two minutes from the door, and Casa-Port and the old medina are 15 minutes up the line.
Where do you eat near the joutia?
Snack Amine is 700 m away and opens daily 11:00 to 22:00; grilled or fried fish runs 60 DH to 75 DH. Chez Robio, at 365 Boulevard Abdelmoumen, opens 09:00 to 21:00 and charges 50 DH to 75 DH a plate, with couscous on Fridays and rfissa on Wednesdays.
Can you watch Raja or Wydad at the Complexe Sportif Mohammed V?
Tickets start at 50 DH, but pitch work in late 2026 moved Raja and Wydad league games to Stade Larbi Zaouli for now, so check the venue for your fixture first. For the Casablanca derby, sit in a neutral stand.
