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How to buy a fish by weight, have it grilled ten metres away and eat for under 100 dirhams in the middle of downtown Casablanca, with the renovation works, the dust and the closed days all accounted for.

What there is to see inside Casablanca's walled old quarter, how long a visit takes, which gate to use, and whether a guide earns its fee.

What the guided hour inside Morocco's seaside mosque shows you, how the fixed-time slots work, and what else fits into the half-day around it.

Casablanca's central plaza is free and has no gate: what you can walk into, what you pay for nearby, and when the fountain is worth waiting for.























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